Very good question Odyknuck. I would like to do this also with my new LT kit. It has the mounting brackets already welded up for the brake to be installed. Looking forward to the replies.

 

We are adding a 4th (left rear) caliper to the race car as we are extending the diff and are having to make new rear control arms- kit just came in (BRP racing offers it- don't know of availability to general public yet but will ask) all the parts should be available from BRP though

We havnt felt the overwhelming need for it as the car with a clutch that provides back pressure seems to greatly reduce the need, but we have changed to a freewheeling clutch and we notices how quickly the brakes fade from our last race...so on it goes.

 

Could you explain this ¿we have changed to a freewheeling clutch?

Thanks
Francisco Lopez

 

I have done some research and it appears that you can mount a right rear Caliper on the left side. It puts the bleeder on the bottom requiring it to be removed for bleeding. So my option is to use a left front Caliper assembly. The downside is it uses a different mounting bracket and would require a different mounting bracket welded onto the left Trailing arm. I have confirmed that the basic Calipers are all the same on the Commander meaning the pucks are the same size so to have even brake pressure on both left and right Rotors. Also the Front Hubs and Rotors are the same as the right rear one and thats a good thing. So the cost will be somewere around $450.00 for the Caliper assembly, Hub, Rotor, pads and a few misc. parts not provided with the Caliper assembly and what ever brake lines required. Note the rear brake line is a single braided S/S from the Caliper all the way up to the master cylinder. I do not know what the aftermarket LT manufactures had in mind when they added the caliper bracket on the left rear arm. Would be good to know.

 

I have both rear brakes,when FST installed my LT they have option to add brake.It was fairly simple,they spliced into brake line.Works good.

 

How about some pics 4weeler...

 

Rotors, spacers and studs would be the same as the active rear side. An ideal set up would be one like this it would give you a mechanical parking break as well as 4 wheel disc:

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList.aspx?subname=Combination P-Brake

 

Rotors, spacers and studs would be the same as the active rear side. An ideal set up would be one like this it would give you a mechanical parking break as well as 4 wheel disc:

Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Combination P-Brake Calipers

Coorect the front and rear use the same wheel hubs and rotors. The Calipers however are build left and right hand.

 

here is what you need to add dual rear breaks.
i found the parts at cheap cycleparts.com
plus you will need to have break lines made, this will run you about $85.00
if you have a long travel kit, the left rear trailing arm should have the brakets already there for the caliper.

705600872 - Can-AmRear Caliper
$187.64


705600684 - Can-AmBrake Disc
$26.54


705400713 - Can-AmWheel Hub
$35.99


705400791 - Can-AmWheel Stud
$8.54 you need 4 of them

 

here is what you need to add dual rear breaks.
i found the parts at cheap cycleparts.com
plus you will need to have break lines made, this will run you about $85.00
if you have a long travel kit, the left rear trailing arm should have the brakets already there for the caliper.

705600872 - Can-AmRear Caliper
$187.64


705600684 - Can-AmBrake Disc
$26.54


705400713 - Can-AmWheel Hub
$35.99


705400791 - Can-AmWheel Stud
$8.54 you need 4 of them

You also need 1 banjo bolt , 2 copper washers , and the 2 bolts that hold the caliber on.

 

Welcome aboard. I have already added the additional Caliper. I used another rear brake line and ran it up to the master cylinder. I machined a tee to accomadate the additional line and the brake light switch.